problem with my '88 Plymouth Reliant wagon

[carolslewis]

Thanks so much! I GREATLY appreciate all the suggestions.

[Butch]

If you are going to throw parts at it as previously suggested, START with the obvious parts. Some electronic parts malfunction when hot, the hep sensor is famous for this and will set a code. The fuel pump is also a suspect but with NO codes. So I would 1ST !!!!!!!!! change the hep sensor, it's under the distributor cap and is VERY easy to change. 2 screws hold the dis. cap + hep sensor. Remove the cap. Next pull the rotor off, then lift the hep sensor and unplug it. Reverse the oder to install it, a 5 minute job a monkey could do. If that doesn't fix it, than replace the fuel pump WITH a new fuel filter. Don't replace any of the previously mention parts as they are not a symptom of an intermintent problem. Although they should be change as normal maintiance.

[Butch]

I should also mention that the check eng. is suppose to light for a second or two when 1st starting the car. This is the computer doing it's programed self check including the light. So turn on the key without starting it and make sure it lights for a second than goes out. This procedure is also used in the California smog check program.

[carolslewis]

About the warning light and codes, when does the computer clear the codes? That is, if the car has been driven several times without exhibiting the symptoms, will the codes still be set, or do you have to check the codes right when the problem is happening?

[Butch]

The puter will clear the codes after 50 starts, or you can disconnect the batt for 10 min. This happen on the older OBD 1 cars but not on the OBD 2 cars ( 1996 + up ). The OBD ( on board diagnostics ) require a scan tool to clear the codes. The codes will be set in the until they are cleared, so you can read them anytime until the 50 start. That is if the proplem went away. So is your car fixed now ?

[Jacks1986Lebaron]

About the warning light and codes, when does the computer clear the codes? That is, if the car has been driven several times without exhibiting the symptoms, will the codes still be set, or do you have to check the codes right when the problem is happening?

Yes, unless you disconnect the battery, but even then once re-connected, and driven, it should throw up a code if something is still wrong.

[carolslewis]

Thanks for the info. No, it's not fixed, still in the shop. They've had it for over a week and never been able to get it to exhibit the symptoms. But now that I know the codes should still be there (nowhere close to 50 starts since the last problem), I'm going to take my big list of suggested ways to proceed to them. And if they don't seem interested enough, I'll find another mechanic somewhere around here who knows something about these cars. The problem is that I live WAY out in the country and mechanics are a long way away, and few and far between...

[Jacks1986Lebaron]

Carol....I agree with Butch's 1st or 2nd post about the HEP sensor.

Since your not really aware of what has and has not been replaced on your little wagon, I would have the mechanic replace the dist. cap (cheap) rotor (cheap) and the HEP sensor (about $15 to $35).

The HEP sensor is located right below the rotor in your distributor. Ya might be out all together $75, but at least you'll know those parts are new, and hopefully won't have to be replaced for a long while.

As for living out in the country, I live IN Nashville..........and there are plenty of mechanics, just not one that can fix MY car!! haha...but I drive it everyday, and figure one day I will eventually replace the correct part that my car has needed all along!!

[1of10K]

This might help, check your gas cap for correctness (Vapor Lock). Had a similar problem with 2 other non-K cars before, both traced to gas cap. One was aftermarket, not vented correectly for the car, the other problem solved it self by tightning the cap until the clicks were heard. Strange, but a free thing to try and priceless if it works!