Now, if I could just start the car from the INSIDE...

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Now, if I could just start the car from the INSIDE...

Postby johnnytoobad » Tue Dec 21, 2010 2:13 pm

The electrical comedy of errors continues under the hood of my '88 Plymouth Reliant K 2.5 "TBI".

Ever since I connected a new battery backwards (and created a small fireworks display), I've been trying to trace the disconnect, with no success so far.

I've managed to start the car by pushing down on the starter relay arm (definitely not something I would have thought of by myself) and the engine starts, runs and kicks down.

I've opened the main fusible link, cut out some melted segments of wire, and patched it back together to the best of my very limited abilities.

Turning the key in the ignition makes all kinds of clicking noises under the hood.

It just doesn't start the cussed car.

As my initial post indicated, I've tested the car's ECU/SMEC with a digital multimeter and got all kinds of numbers; I've replaced a dead starter relay and checked my error codes faithfully ("11," a "12" and a "55", without variation).

As before, I'd be most grateful for the advice and input of my more knowledgeable friends out there in the great wide world of K-Car-ness.
Last edited by johnnytoobad on Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Car Information: 1988 Plymouth Reliant Wagon LE

Re: I turned my Reliant's electrical system inside out.

Postby Jacks1986Lebaron » Tue Dec 21, 2010 7:20 pm

Wow!! hate that happened to ya.

have you checked to make sure your "new" battery isn't ruined?

I would check "all" my fuses and fusible links, then trace and inspect each wire (ground wire included) that comes off of my battery to its origin, making sure they are all in good shape, and attached snuggly to whatever they are supposed to go to.

I would inspect my distributor, cap, rotor, and wires, and check the plug wire that runs over to your ignition coil on the pass. fender, make sure they are all okay and attached snug.

I'm not a mechanic, but that is what I would start with, hopefully locating a bad connection or fuse or another melted wire.

good luck and let us know how its going!
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Re: I turned my Reliant's electrical system inside out.

Postby K-CAR_WAGON » Tue Dec 21, 2010 7:51 pm

Did the car crank over properly before you installed the battery backwards? Engine definitley free? Starter worked originally ok? Battery might now be substantilly drained and might not be able to supply enough current to drive starter motor. Or you temporary connections might not be good enough and might be providing a high resistance path on the starter control. You really need some meters to check to make sure you are getting voltage to the starter when you try to crank it, and then that the starter is drawing current. The click might be the starter solenoid being engaging but the starter motor will not turn over. A high resistance connection at one of the battery terminals can also cause the symptom you describe. Make sure the battery terminals are clean and in good shape.

The starter should have two wires going to it. The heavy one generally goes directly to the battery + terminal and is generally unfused. The smaller wire is a control for activating the starter solenoid. The starter body through the engine block is the retrun path back to the - terminal of the battery. When you tun the key and start to crank it you should get voltage at the control wire of the starter which activates the starter solenoid and causes current to flow through the heavy wire to the starter motor and turn the starter motor. If you have a voltmeter you can check that voltage is being applied to the control wire of the starter when you turn the key. If you have an induction type ammeter you can check that current is going though the heavy starter wire.

Distributor cap, rotor, coil, ignition wires have nothing to do with cranking the car.

You have to get the car to crank first.
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Re: I turned my Reliant's electrical system inside out.

Postby 88AriesLEwagon » Tue Dec 21, 2010 9:15 pm

A fried SMEC shouldnt keep the engine from cranking. You have got more wires fried somewhere.
And paint your positive clamp red.....
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Re: I turned my Reliant's electrical system inside out.

Postby K-CAR_WAGON » Tue Dec 21, 2010 10:12 pm

If you have a basic meter. To start with check what the DC voltage is across the battery with everything off. Then check the voltage with the headlights on. Then, check the voltage while turning the key and trying to crank it.
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Re: I turned my Reliant's electrical system inside out.

Postby Butch » Wed Dec 22, 2010 6:55 am

More than likely the SMEC is fried along with a relay or two. This site may help you....http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/index.html
Mopar or No car. Tires and Tits, Rock on.
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