Takes time for my car to warm up/ Power Loss

[njr600]

Hi to all!! Just wanted to post this one to see if anyone would know whats going on with my car. Well early in the morning before i take off or if the car has sat for a few hours i have to give my car at least 5 to 10mins for it to get warm before i take off to go anywhere. If i don't it will backfire and miss till its warm. Someone said its just cold nature but it seems strange to me!! I have a 84 Dodge 600 2.2 turbo by the way. I see people hop in there cars and go lol but i know better. I'm in process this weekend of having my o2 sensor replaced but i dont know if thats causing that problem or not. Also i was getting a power loss light and i was getting codes 21,22, 42, 51 and 55. I know 55 is when the test has ended but after about a week of driving i only get code 21. So does this mean my coolant temp sensor which is code 22 is good. I went to the auto store and brought one just in case but is there anyway i can get it tested to make sure?? Any suggestions??? Thanks!!

[Jacks1986Lebaron]

Found this for you:

Fault Code 21
Synopsis
Description: Oxygen sensor signal stays in neutral region too long
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: Engine allowed to run rich, but prevented from running lean

Possible Causes
Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the sensor and the logic module (or SMEC). Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts. Look for melted wire insulation near the exhaust manifold. An open connection will cause this fault code.
Bad oxygen sensor - Replace the sensor which is located on the turbo housing near the down pipe (for turbo) or on the down pipe near the exhaust manifold.

List of all codes:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/index.html


Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- In closed-loop for 718 seconds (11 minutes, 58 seconds)
- Sensor output stays in the neutral region for more than 21 seconds

[njr600]

Thanks!! I'm going to put the car in the shop this weekend and have some mechanics look at it for me. I got a brand new oxygen sensor so it may just need it. I believe it may be the original o2 sensor. I will probably need to get it replaced lol. And my power loss light is coming on and staying on sometimes. I believe its for the code 22, temp coolant sensor. I got a replacement for it too. I'm going to check the link out to make sure and see what its actually saying for code 22 but i believe it was for coolant temp sensor. Thanks for all the help. I will post again to let everyone know my outcome. Right now its running ok, got a real strong smell coming out of the exhuast. I think its running rich like you described in your message. Thanks!!!!!

[Jacks1986Lebaron]

Your welcome.

From the light coming on, and it running like crap at times, I would venture to guess with the code 22 it would be your coolant temp sensor. BUT....it could be just the connection is dirty.

Let us know what ya find out and Good Luck!!

[njr600]

I sure will let you know what i will find out. Come to think about it the connection may be just dirty like you said. The light Has been off for about a day now. Its only coming on now if i pull on the connection. Whats the best way for cleaning the connection?



And i got one more question about the coolant temp sensor. I had read somewhere, maybe in one of the code links that it cuts your fan on at a certain coolant temp. I had a radiator fan relay go out on me a few years ago and a mechanic wind up running the connection to my AC relay. My fan has been working just fine but my question is how is my fan cutting on if the coolant temp is not working, assuming its not since i'm getting that code 22? But it only comes on now if i pull or mess with the connection. And once the problem is corrected how will i know? It seems like the idle changes when i unplug the temp sensor coolant but when i go to plug it back up the power loss light just stays on and runs rougher but doesnt change will. Will it be vise versa if its working correctly, the light should stay out when i unplug it and plug it back in right? Sorry for all the questions, just wanted to make sure i know its working correctly.

[Jacks1986Lebaron]

I am NO mechanic by any stretch of the imagination.

But....By reading this below, I ascertain that for 1984 models only, "if" the coolant temp sensor is not working, that the "charge temp sensor" is used as an indication of the coolant temp.

>>>>Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease. <<<<<<

Your Coolant Temp Sensor may intermittantly be losing connection due to bad wiring or dirty connections.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________-

Fault Code 22-1984
Synopsis
Notes: For 1984 models only
Description: Coolant temperature sensor signal out of range
Power loss light: On
Limp-in mode: Charge temperature sensor as an indication of the coolant temperature


Possible Causes
Coolant temperature sensor failure - The sensor should measure 5,290 ohms to 5,610 ohms at 77^F. On 2.2L and 2.5L engines, this sensor is located on the right-hand side of the water box.
Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the sensor and the logic module (or SMEC). Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease. You may have disconnected the sensor if you recently set the base ignition timing.


Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- Sensor output less than 0.157V or greater than 3.76V
Results If Component Fails
Fault code 22 is stored, the power loss light is turned on, and the logic module will enter limp-in mode, using the charge temperature sensor as an indication of the coolant temperature.