84 LeBaron 2.2 Turbo

[1955racing]

Hello mechanics! I have an 84 LeBaron 2.2 turbo. Been in storage, I have cleaned out fuel tank put in new fuel pump completely cleaned injectors. Car ran perfect for about an hour everything worked. Sat about two weeks won't start. Applied 12 volts to positive side of coil with return hose off. Pumped about a pint of fuel, so that's okay. I noticed speedo and gauges flutter while cranking. And blink briefly when turning the key on or off. Code Light works, no codes. Any ideas? Thank you so much! this is a cool car,trying to bring it gently back to life.

[1955racing]

Forgot to mention, those speedo and gauges are off when key is on, just blink when turning on or off.

[K-CAR_WAGON]

Make sure your timing belt is ok and distributor is rotating. Maybe you have a low voltage at the computer due to either a low battery, a connection issue or a bad ground. Any spark initially while cranking? Can you hear the fuel pump being initially powered on? Maybe computer issue.

See no engine feed section of this link.
http://minimopar.net/electrical-powerfeeds.html

For starters make sure your battery is fully charged and the battery terminal connections are good. When you crank it the voltage will drop somewhat due to the starter load - if the voltage drops too low at the computer (the computers will not function properly) you will not be able to get it started.

[1955racing]

Thanks K Car Wagon! I believe after all the attempts at starting, the battery is down. It is a new battery but only came with whatever charge was in it. It's charging now and I have checked all wiring, connections and grounds that I could. If that doesn't do it, do you suspect the shutdown relay could be at fault?

[1955racing]

I'll add that it did start once during these attempts and ran about 15 seconds then back to the same thing.

[Kwagon2]

Hi
At this point I would personally take a "back to basics" approach as in what does it need to run. You mention the ASD relay you'll have to monitor that fellow with a voltmeter to see if it actually drops out. Is the power module seeing a strong RPM signal from the distributor ? If not, there goes the ASD relay and it shuts down the fuel rail , ign coil and pump. I would also say Connections need to be checked to ensure electrical continuity to all points. You mention you have a few blips and so on with the instrumentation during cycling of the ignition switch, that is an indication of connectivity problems as you mention that your instrumentation is "Off" when the ignition is "On" if I read your post correctly....
I hate to say this but mid eighties cars are prone to wiring failures as the industry changed plastic formulations making the wiring and insulation more susceptible to heat damage. I've seen engine compartment wiring insulation actually crumble away when handled due to heat degradation...something to consider...

[1955racing]

So, after checking all wiring and connections I found nothing suspicious.I went ahead and ordered a new ASD relay called a fuel pump relay by NAPA. Zoom! Running very well! Starts right up! Going to move on to all the belts, including timing. Check brake lines and such. Should be dependable enough at that point for some top down Sunday drives!

[Kwagon2]

Congrats!! A simple relay change and away ya go... all in all these cars are as reliable as the sun...I had forgotten how much fun these cars were to drive until I "rediscovered" them with my Reliant. I'm seriously thinking about a Dodge 400 ragtop that I came across a while ago...
Anyway ...Have fun!!!!

[1955racing]

New issue! So its running great, 2 days sitting I start it up and a very fast idle? Slows down and power loss light comes on. Drives around for a short ride and I checked codes. 34 egr solenoid circuit. Not even sure I'm looking in the right place for it. Anyone know how to check it? I can't even find the part online to see what it looks like. Maybe I'm not calling it the right thing. Any ideas?

[Kwagon2]

Well looks like you can't get rid of me The EGR assembly is right under the throttle body assembly pretty well at the drivers side end of the Turbo assembly. It can be tested directly with a manual vacuum unit to ensure the diaphragm is intact. Your code 34 indicates a problem with the solenoid circuit itself. The solenoids are located just in front of the passenger side shock tower under a black plastic cover, there should be four of them , they are from left to right "purge", "Egr", "Waste gate" & Barometric read solenoid. The Egr uses a no 18 gauge yellow to a four way connector and then from there to cavity 6 of connector 2 (the blue one) of the logic module located behind the passenger side kick panel. Check the wires coming from the solenoid(s) to a one way connector (they are all common)to 12 volts , fed by fuse #13( 5amp). The logic module I believe is a current sinking style of switch module so it monitors current flow to ground on activation if there is none it sets the fault code you see. If you have access to a Chrysler DRB II (Diagnostic Readout Box II) or equivalent (OTC 4000 or 4000E) you can run a "switch test" to test the circuit. If not, you're doing full continuity tests with a meter . Without a DRB etc. you can clear the code by simply disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Hope this helps....