'88 Dodge Aries sat couple years & won't start

[88 DODGE]

Hello!
Long story short - my father left his Aries for many years in the driveway and I've gathered much interest in its history.. thus I am attempting to resurect it as a summer project car. After checking the fluids, changing the oil & filter I have attempted to start the car. The engine rotates but will not start. I think there is a fuel problem..

After some research, I've come up with scenarios such as faulty Auto Shut Down relay, seized fuel pump ect.. I though I'd start by checking the relay circuit but I cannot find it at all. The Haynes manuel states it is under the passenger compartment behind the right kicker.. I have no idea where that is. Can someone clarify? Also any suggestions/tips?

Fault codes showing up: #12,37
Thanks!

[89ARIES]

Could be the gasoline has turned to varnish after sitting so long. I don't think
gas can last four years in the tank. Thats what I have heard anyway as I am
no mechanic.

[Butch]

The ASD relay is behind the battery and should click when the key is on + then click again after 1 sec without cranking the eng. Fuel pumps are known to go bad from sitting too long also. To work on these cars you need a DVOM + know how to use it. I would 1ST check for power + grd. at the fuelpump. The ASD relay sends power to the fuelpump, coil + injector and will see power during the 1 sec. click. Check out these sites for info...http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ also....http://www.thedodgegarage.com/.... and this site for general automotive knowledge....http://www.aa1car.com/index_alphabetical.htm Good luck. Butch

[Jacks1986Lebaron]

Fault Code 12
Synopsis
Description: Memory standby power recently lost
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None



Possible Causes
Battery or power line recently disconnected - This code is normal if the electrical system has been worked on or the battery has recently been disconnected. It will be removed after 15 ignition switch on/off cycles.

Low system voltage, bad battery or battery terminals - If the system recently had a power drop (due to a dead battery or bad alternator), this code will appear. If the battery terminals are bad and the engine was jumped, this code will appear. See the Diagnosing Your Charging System page for more information.

Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the battery, power module, and logic module (or SMEC). Check all fusible links and power connectors to the battery. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.



Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- Logic module receives power after previously not having power

Results If Component Fails
Fault code 12 is stored. The logic module is basically telling you that it has lost power and will not remember any previously stored codes or engine sensor table data. The code will be removed after 15 ignition on/off cycles and the logic module will use default values for all look-up tables as a starting point until it "learns" the attributes of the engine.

[Butch]

Diag for code 37 Auto trans. Solenoid is INSIDE the trans, unfornately there's no info on the net for this code. I have a Chrysler ECU training manual which how I found out about it. If the shift linkage is out of adjustment it will spit out the code.

[Jacks1986Lebaron]

Your correct Butch, it is a 1988 Dodge.............

[1of10K]

I vote for the bad gas. If repeated attempts are made to start a car with old/bad gas, you have brought up the old stuff into your motor and fuel filter. Try to drain out the old gas and flush the tank. If the drain plug will not come out, maybe there is a way just to disocnnect the fuel line at the tank. Sometimes, the inside of the fuel filter turns to mush from old gas, so change it too, drain the line from the filter to the tank by taking the line off the bottom of the fuel filter first. I had a '54 Mercury with the same problem recently, I had to drain almost 20 gallons of old stinking varnishie gas from it and refill with new, change the filter, drain the line at the carb and and the float, got a fresh battery and did many short crank attempts (to avoid starter burnout) to start it up. Being that I'm from the old school, I have also used starting fluid all my life in hunderds of cars with good results. But that is also dangerous and don't try that route unless it's a last resort and with someone knowledgable in the stuff. I'm big on trying the cheap easy fixes first, then moving on the the other stuff if they don't work.

[88 DODGE]

The ASD relay is behind the battery and should click when the key is on + then click again after 1 sec without cranking the eng. Fuel pumps are known to go bad from sitting too long also. To work on these cars you need a DVOM + know how to use it. I would 1ST check for power + grd. at the fuelpump. The ASD relay sends power to the fuelpump, coil + injector and will see power during the 1 sec. click. Check out these sites for info...http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ also....http://www.thedodgegarage.com/.... and this site for general automotive knowledge....http://www.aa1car.com/index_alphabetical.htm Good luck. Butch

Thank you to all for the support. Butch.. I first put the key into the on position and I heard the two clicks. But after the 3rd try putting the key in the on position the clicking stopped.. I think the relay is malfunctioning. After about an hour, I went under the car to the fuel pump and used my DVOM to check for power. My father was turning the key to the ON position whilst I was checking. Same thing happened, there was power the first two tries and after the third no more power showed at the fuel pump.

Now my dilema is how to distinguish which of the four relays located behind the battery is the ASD relay. Funny thing was I removed one of them and the fan suddenly started working.. I believe that was the Radiator Fan relay. Now which of the 3 is the ASD relay? I could upload a picture if that would help.

Andrew

[Butch]

Since you have power to the punp the ASD relay is good. Did you hear the pump run during the 1st click ? If not bang on the tank to get it to run. Sometimes this works or NOT. If you can't hear the pump run, replace it. You can do the same test with the DVOM at the coil + injector too. I wouldn't worry about a 3rd click thu.

[88 DODGE]

Since you have power to the punp the ASD relay is good. Did you hear the pump run during the 1st click ? If not bang on the tank to get it to run. Sometimes this works or NOT. If you can't hear the pump run, replace it. You can do the same test with the DVOM at the coil + injector too. I wouldn't worry about a 3rd click thu.

Shouldn't there be power each time the key is put to the ON position? There isn't power each time.. only on two separate times there was power in maybe 50 tries.

The power cap to the fuel pump off so I did not have the chance to check if the fuel pump does work.. in fact how am I supposed know if it works if there isn't power at most times?