The Chrysler K-Car Club

MyDodgeDip wrote:If antifreeze was burning you might not be able to tell and you can certainly drive a car with a bad head gasket. Just trying to rule out everything else first but with all the problems and "Repairs" done to the car, it's going to be impossible.

Yeah, I HAVE! Without knowing it, hence the learning it the hard way. The only slight clue was that I was gradually losing water for no obvious reason - no exterior leaks, etc. A slight loss at first but it got bigger.

MyDodgeDip wrote:If antifreeze was burning you might not be able to tell and you can certainly drive a car with a bad head gasket. Just trying to rule out everything else first but with all the problems and "Repairs" done to the car, it's going to be impossible.

could it be the water pump hasnt been changed in 5 years, im replacing all the hoses now and sensors.. and then going to burp it

inrltd wrote:

MyDodgeDip wrote:If antifreeze was burning you might not be able to tell and you can certainly drive a car with a bad head gasket. Just trying to rule out everything else first but with all the problems and "Repairs" done to the car, it's going to be impossible.

could it be the water pump hasnt been changed in 5 years, im replacing all the hoses now and sensors.. and then going to burp it

its not the head gasket we got kits to test it and there is no exhaust fumes or whatever it is in the heads...

my dads a master mechanic but hes only here on weekends, but hes here now and im going to get it fixed today.. im just going to buy a waterpump right now ..

I assume you already checked the thermostat and it is opening at the correct temperature? And checked that your radiator cap is ok and holding pressure? Radiator could also be clogged.

K-CAR_WAGON wrote:I assume you already checked the thermostat and it is opening at the correct temperature? And checked that your radiator cap is ok and holding pressure? Radiator could also be clogged.

just got done changed all the hoses.. one hose was 55 dollars and another bottom radiator hose was like cost alot..
bought new radiator cap
bought new thermostat and hoses
replaced oil cover gasket just cause i was in that area..

put all new anti freeze in it even though the old antifreeze was still bright green
bled out the anti freeze seems like the bubbles never stops so i let it leak out for a good 15 minutes then capped it off...

RESULTS>>>>>>>
1.its worse than before.. now it goes to the H after 20 minutes of driving
2.the heater never worked now it works since i replaced all the components all the way to the body of the car and the ones that go into the manifold... problem is it wont stop blowing now.. and doesnt get hot
3.there is still bubbles on the top hose that is from the thermostat to the radiator and it sounds super rough now .. and there is no leaks...
4. i havnt replaced the water pump yet cause i didnt know if it was that... there is no visible leaks in the water pump but i dont know how to check it ..
5. Maybe you guys are right about the head gasket, even though i ran all the tests and the anti freeze never leaks out or burns up i replace the anti freeze about every 8 months or so....
6. my car is still mad at me for trying to get a new one... my wifes fault... im go hit her right now before i forget... just kidding lol

I had one car years ago (non-K-car) in which the original Chrysler water pump failed internally. The impeller, which was made of a plastic type material, had came loose relative to its drive shaft and slipping - pumping little or nothing. I am not sure what the design water pump is used on the K-car 4 cyl engines and whether or not they can fail in this way. Another high mileage car just had alot of build-up in the radiator clogging it and casuing overheating. If you really had a head gasket leak, I think that leak testor with the dye color change should have picked it up.

Is the compression ok and everything else ok with the engine, no excessive backpressure, timing set properly, etc.?

And you confirmed that the fan is actually running and the fan blade is actually turning and pulling air through the radiator?

K-CAR_WAGON wrote:I had one car years ago (non-K-car) in which the original Chrysler water pump failed internally. The impeller, which was made of a plastic type material, had came loose relative to its drive shaft and slipping - pumping little or nothing. I am not sure what the design water pump is used on the K-car 4 cyl engines and whether or not they can fail in this way. Another high mileage car just had alot of build-up in the radiator clogging it and casuing overheating. If you really had a head gasket leak, I think that leak testor with the dye color change should have picked it up.

Is the compression ok and everything else ok with the engine, no excessive backpressure, timing set properly, etc.?

ill check all that tommorrow, my dad didnt show up on my own this weekend

Hi,

You mentioned "bubbling" and the top radiator hose. If your seeing bubbles in the coolant overflow tank or when you have the radiator cap off before it gets really hot, that is a tip off of a bad head gasket. You can usually smell burning antifreeze in the exhaust as well. If you are sure you have repaired all the hoses and are absolutely sure you have no leaks and are still loosing antifreeze it is likely a bad headgasket.
On the water pump, all those that I have seen have a metal impeller pressed on the pump shaft. Changing the pump is a bit of a project. If the car has A/C dismount the compressor with out removing the refrigerant lines and flop it over on top of the engine. Then remove the alternator and compressor/alternator mounting bracket. You will see the pump housing below the alternator. The pump is an insert type and you will reuse the main housing. Ther pump is sealed to the housing with a form in place RTV gasket. Get a shop manual before tackling the water pump, so you can see what's involved.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

I don't believe in those Test Kits...it's just a plain waste of money.. any loss of antifreeze, overheating, no heat, ect ect all points to either air in the system or a bad headgasket..in this case it sounds like the head gasket is blown and is letting the coolent into the cylinder. Same thing happens on the GM 3100 V6, if their gasket goes they love to burn coolent. i've never heard of a 2.2 doing that before but I guess it can happen.

I replaced the water pump on a detail for retail 86 Reliant I had..the whole job took about two hours..The pain in the ass part was getting to the belt tightener. There are four bolts that hold the a/c compressor on, Remove them and the compressor, do not disconnect the system...just move it aside, then there are two bolts on the alternator they are fairly long..pretty simple job.