The Chrysler K-Car Club

88 aries wrote:I don't believe in those Test Kits....

Is this from firsthand experience that the kits like the one below (see link) don't work to detect an exhaust leak into the coolant? I know a couple of mechanics that use them and I was told that they work and that it is a worthwhile test to peform before pulling an engine apart to get confirmation.

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-75500.as ... 4AodsWMDRQ

K-CAR_WAGON wrote:

88 aries wrote:I don't believe in those Test Kits....

Is this from firsthand experience that the kits like the one below (see link) don't work to detect an exhaust leak into the coolant? I know a couple of mechanics that use them and I was told that they work and that it is a worthwhile test to peform before pulling an engine apart to get confirmation.

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-75500.as ... 4AodsWMDRQ

no my dad actually has the kit with the huge cases for major detection.. the blue liquid cost about 100 dollars for a full bottle if not more..
and it works..

did u read my post about 1,3,4 compression is at 120- 135 psi

while 2 is at 60 and staying at 60 after 10 plus tests

i guess i have to get a fill me down leak test to see where the leak is .. my dad says he wont have one till next weekend cause its about 300 miles away where he lives.. ssooooooo should i take it to a mechanic shop and pay for the leak detection thing

I did not see any post indicating that you have bad compression in cylinder #2. So your engine probably needs some major work. If your dad is willing to work on it for you or at least do the diagnostics on the engine, I would just wait instead of spending more money at a garage.

K-CAR_WAGON wrote:I did not see any post indicating that you have bad compression in cylinder #2. So your engine probably needs some major work. If your dad is willing to work on it for you or at least do the diagnostics on the engine, I would just wait instead of spending more money at a garage.

ok thanks alot for all your help, and everyone elses help..

my next step is to find the leak and then see if i can fix the #2 cylinder

I was brought up the old school way...common sense...no need for fancy kits...well minus a compression tester...its simple really for example coolent:

coolent leaking? Radiator, water pump, rotten hoses, blown headgasket.

overheating? Temp Gauge, themostat, waterpump.


vac leak? cigar smoke..


Trial and error is much more fun if you got the money to blow...

88 aries wrote:I was brought up the old school way...common sense...no need for fancy kits...well minus a compression tester...its simple really for example coolent:

coolent leaking? Radiator, water pump, rotten hoses, blown headgasket.

overheating? Temp Gauge, themostat, waterpump.


vac leak? cigar smoke..


Trial and error is much more fun if you got the money to blow...

ok so the compression tester showed 60 psi in cylinder 2.. does that mean you would take the engine apart and see whats wrong with it .. go get the heads checked for 150$ get new heads change gaskets without checking heads? what should i do?

should i just buy a new engine?

oh and my wife just bought a 19,995 hhr at 12% which is crazy ridiculous so i might not have a penny to spare after each month.. time to set aside the dodge aries.. or even just move on .

60 LBs of compression is a good enough answer to tear the engine down to the headgasket..the gasket could be leaking...or you may have a cracked head... before you send the head in check for cracks yourself..

88 aries wrote:60 LBs of compression is a good enough answer to tear the engine down to the headgasket..the gasket could be leaking...or you may have a cracked head... before you send the head in check for cracks yourself..

ok deal i am going to listen to u and take this engine apart ...

is there a way i can check for cracks on the heads like they do with that metallic stuff that sticks in a line on the cracks...

the heads to my 2008 dodge 2500 blew and the dealership charged me 250 for the metal stuff to check for cracks and then they made me buy new ones and said the checking of the heads was not refundable.. im scared that will happen..

ill google it .. and ty for all your help i appreciate you as well as the others helping me on these forums .. im a better mechanic being here

thanks

Hi,

I would repeat the compression test on the #2 cylinder to reconfirm the 60 pound reading. If it really is at 60 pounds, squirt some oil into the cylinder and repeat the compression test. If the compression comes up, it's likely a ring issue. If it does not change it's like a headgasket or valve issue. If you reconfirm the 60 pounds in #2 cylinder, yes, at least the head is going to have to come off to see what is going on. My bet is still a head gasket issue. As 88 Aries stated you are going to have to check the head for warping and cracks. Depending on what you find out about the head you may need a replacement or some machine work done. Your in for some engine work at this point and you may want to comsider the general condition of the whole car before going futher. If the body and interior are clean and in good condition it would be worth the work. If the car is all beat up and very tired it may not be. If it looks like bad rings in #2, your going to be in for a new engine or complete rebuild.

If this is a high milage car and you don't know anything about its past history as to if the head gasket has been replaced before I would also replace the head bolts. Also, if this were my car with many miles and an unknown history I would replace the timing belt, tensioner and water pump while I had it apart this far.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

HI,

I just saw your question about the magnetic "stuff" and crack detection on a engine head. That only works as far as I know on a cast iron head. The head on your car is aluminum and non-magnetic, so I don't think it will work. I'm not sure how you detect carcks in an aluminum head.