Hi
So what you’re saying is the initial problem all along was high idle speed??
Was it like that from the start or did the idle climb while you where driving it …it must have really hammered the trans when you put in gear …..not good!! Higher idle speed should only appear during a cold start, with the Air on to compensate for compressor load and if the engine temp rises to "hot".
Unless the throttle body was completely misadjusted the high idle would have been attributed to the AIS motor sticking etc. Man , I was heading off in a whole different direction …So I would say go back into the throttle body and check it all again , any time the throttle body is opened use a new o-ring and gasket kit mandatory! Ensure the AIS motor orifices are spotless. Ensure the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator is snug and in good shape as in all the vacuum lines leading to and from the throttle body.
You’ve had it off before so I don’t think I need to explain the fuel system de-pressurization step.
The Throttle body "cycling" is no doubt the AIS motor trying to move to a position as dictated by the Logic module so I would take that as a good sign that the AIS motor may still be alive.
Now on to your other questions .... The power module does not require any special programming as long as the replacement matches the original module part number (the rebuilder should have referenced the Chrysler part number).
AS I stated before the power module is the "worker" the brains of the outfit is the Logic Module it also is part number specific.
It is possible to remove the fuel injection and revert to Carburetion but obviously you'll need the carb (A holley 5220 or 6520 for the 2.2) the correct spark control computer (note the Holley 6520 is the Electronically metered one that uses the O2 sensor input to the computer which in turn drives a metering solenoid in the carb) or you can go and get a Weber replacement
https://www.webercarbsdirect.com/category-s/691.htm in which case you'll just need the spark computer for the 5220 carb which is straight mechanical , mechanical fuel pump and lines , modification of the fuel pickup in the tank with removal of the electric pump and appropriate wiring mods. I'm not sure about the intake manifold itself as they are all different part numbers but at the very least you'll need the carb spacer/isolator for the intake manifold and the brackets for the throttle cable,trans throttle pressure cable, cruise etc. Lets not forget the correct air cleaner assembly with brackets and so on..... The year of the car should make it exempt from emission testing so you can do whatever you want under hood (some states say 25 years and older) I'm guessing when I say you should be OK in that regard as I don't know what your situation is specifically.